9 November 2009 Part II of Sea Ice Training

As always, Mt. Erebus watches over us. I truly am mesmerized by this volcano, and I don't think it's because it's the first one I've ever seen...could be, but I don't think so. Aspley Cherry-Garrard of the doomed Scott Expedition to the Pole described Erebus as follows in his book The Worst Journey in the World."I have seen Fiji, the most dainty and graceful of all mountains; and also Kinchinjunga: only Michael Angelo among men could have conceived such grandeur. But give me Erebus for a friend. Whoever made Erebus knew all the charm of the horizontal lines, and the lines of Erebus are for the most part nearer the horizontal than the vertical. And so he is the most restful mountain in the world, and I was glad when I knew that our hut would lie at his feet. And always there floated from his crater the lazy banner of his cloud of steam."

And while I refer to Erebus as a "her", I certainly agree that she is a most amazing masterpiece! Absolutely compelling!

It is a thrill to see the world's southern most active volcano on a daily basis.

Not only does Erebus watch over everything along the coastline and beyond, but she likewise keeps an eye on Tent Island, one of the Dellbridge Islands.

Tent Island is one of the Dellbridge Islands in McMurdo Sound

While gazing out towards Inaccessible Island, we spotted some dark patches off in the distance-clearly a group of seals just chillin'.

Seals on the horizon!

But, during the course of the next many minutes something pretty incredible happened. Thanks to a pair of binoculars we noticed a line of five emperor penguins making their way towards the seals. Once they reached their destination, they stood in a line, gazed at the seals and then immediately huddled as if to figure out their plan of approach. One would look out over the seals and immediately pop his head back into the huddle. We stood there trying to imagine what their "conversation" might have been. (What do you **think they were saying to each other?)  **

This went on for quite some time, and as I panned the horizon with the binoculars, I noticed two more rather large groups of penguins seeming to converge towards us---and every single one of them was in line. It looked like a black broken line heading our way. Sadly, they never did make it to us, but keep reading to see what happened to another group headed back to McMurdo. But, while punching through several holes to measure ice thickness I noticed that several holes spit up water that was a golden, tan color.

Believe it or not, the brown "stuff" is not dirty water but is plankton that is living under the ice.

When we see brown water back home, we think "dirty". This water was far from that! This water was teeming with life-phytoplankton to be exact. Samples were taken back to Crary Lab, and Dawn Moran was gracious enough to share the following picture with me. What you see below is what makes up the "brown stuff"-LIFE!! It still puts my mind on tilt to think that these smallest of plants live both in ice and in the 29 F water.

The "brown stuff" coming out of the ice hole is actually full of diatoms--the base of the food web..

Because I've spent almost every training with a team that is studying phytoplankton down here, I've learned a bit about their research. Jeff McQuaid, a scientist on the team and also my seat mate from LAX on, puts it this way. The team is down here to study phytoplankton under the ice "to see what's there and what they're doing. Phytoplankton is the base of the food web" and is very important to life in the ocean-which does impact us. Check out Jeff's blog to follow the team. (If you check out the Sea Ice post and Happy Camp post, you might see a familiar face!)

http://blogs.jcvi.org/2009/11/ice-diatoms/

Likewise, Mak Saito who is the PI or primary investigator for this team has put together a wonderful slideshow that explains the project and its importance. It is well worth checking out!

http://www.whoi.edu/oceanus/viewArticle.do?id=61766&sectionid=1000

After seal/penguin watching from afar and checking out ice thickness, we piled back into the Hagglund to go on our first boondoggle-the Erebus Tongue Glacier. Check out the following link for a satellite view and information about this particular glacier.

http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/IOTD/view.php?id=4965

Standing outside the Erebus Glacial Tongue after our trip inside the glacier. The snow has such incredible textures and shapes down here! Just outside of the Erebus Glacial ice cave We had a short climb up to the opening of the ice cave.

I was about to enter my first crevasse within a glacier...on purpose. Entering the cathedral like ice cave was heavenly! The walls and ceilings sparkled and glimmered with ice crystals, and the blues hues within, while somewhat eerie and otherworldly, evoked a peace within. I really felt as though I was standing in a sacred place. Breathtaking yet again...and next year this particular cave will be no more.

The crystalline formations surrounding us sparkled and danced in the light. Beautiful crystal formations found in the Erebus Glacial Tongue Inside the Erebus Ice Tongue

Now as promised...back to the penguins. A group returning to McMurdo caught the attention of our penguins, and they were apparently more interesting than us because the penguins paid this particular group a visit! They approached in the same manner-a straight line--got within several feet, huddled to "discuss" their approach to the humans, sent a sentry of sorts out and then two approached and put on quite the little show...arms length away!!!

When show time was over, they scuttled back across the ice, leaving the group with a memory that will surely last a lifetime! Phillip Bohlmann took these stunning photographs and has given me permission to use them on this site. Thanks Phillip-you rock!!

Curious Emperor Penguins approach a group headed back to Mactown. No human/penguin hugging allowed! An Emperor watches out while his buddies check out the humans.