Well, our flight was postponed again today. We reported to transport at both 7:15 am and 3:15 pm, as instructed, but the flights were not available. But I hear people say that there is a very good, actual chance that tomorrow (Friday, January 9) we will finally fly to the South Pole. As always safety in flying is paramount in Antarctica, so flights are postponed if there is any concern whatsoever.
At the top of Observation Hill just outside McMurdo Station.
Halfway to the top of Observation Hill. Credit: Hans Niederhausen.
A good friend and PolarTREC alumni, John Wood, asked what do I think so far. An answer can be found in one of the pictures that I posted on January 6 (the one from 5:26 pm, an impressive sight, indeed). This is not a picture of the so-called 'Antarctic whiteout' (which can be severe, catastrophic events), but rather it shows average conditions for the season and the location we are at. When I stepped out of the airplane I was quite amazed, even as I was already familiar with views like this from Internet websites and television documentaries. It is amazing because when you see things like that—actual scenery that surrounds you 360° around—the view is totally and absolutely immersive. It is simply not possible to experience that from a television screen or a computer monitor. As I said in my earlier post, to see ice all around can be overwhelming or even frightening for the unprepared. That would be just one way of putting it.
McMurdo Station as seen from halfway to the top of Observation Hill.
Enjoying the view at the top of Observation Hill. Left to right: Keith, Me and Jamie. Credit: Hans Niederhausen.
John also asked if, so far, this is how I expected it to be? And I have to say that this is better than expected. Much better, in every sense of the word. As told, the views are real-life, immersive and panoramic. When I hiked to Observation Hill and reached the top I felt something special. I looked down and saw the Ross Ice Shelf and the Transantarctic Mountains in the distance. I had seen tons of pictures before, but none compares to what I actually experienced in terms of color, detail and immersiveness. And then, there is also the temperature. Ice, snow and frost cannot be divorced from cold, and as we felt the cold breeze in our faces we understood what Antarctica really feels like. Sparse snow flurries flew past us, swirling with the breeze, and this was yet another treat we enjoyed immensely.
Outside view of building 155, where I lodged while in McMurdo Station.
The Chapel of the Snows in McMurdo Station.
Today has been the first time we got sunny weather with mostly clear skies. I already had a plan to go out-as an improvement in the weather was already expected-and it was to get out after lunch, around 1:00 pm to 2:30 pm, when the Sun is highest above the horizon (about 34°, at this specific place and time of the year). The temperature was now just above freezing with a very light breeze. Indeed it felt wonderful, very mild and pleasant. Perhaps I was overdressed for the weather, but I knew that conditions can change rapidly in Antarctica so I would not run any risks. I walked over to Scott's hut and did a photo shoot, which turned out wonderfully with some amazing shots. My plan paid out as the rays from the 34-degree-elevation sun really brought out the details in the ice at Ross Ice Shelf and in the volcanic terrain from the surrounding hills in Ross Island. With photography, good illumination from the right direction is the key.
Observation Hill as seen from Hut Point.
A view of the hills in Hut Point Peninsula, a few steps out from McMurdo Station.
Selfie photograph taken at Hut Point. In the background across the Ross Ice Shelf is Mt. Discovery (far left, and partly hidden by clouds) with the hills of Brown Peninsula.
A view of the Ross Ice Shelf from Hut Point, with Black Island in the background. A row of Weddell seals (Leptonychotes weddellii) can be seen lying in the ice just below Black Island.
Finally, I would like to share a couple of two video clips, one in English and the other in Spanish. Comments for the Spanish video were posted within moments of uploading. They explain that there are people in Puerto Rico jumping up in joy with the videos. I must say that in Antarctica it is really challenging to upload any video material because Internet bandwidth is very limited, and I would like to make people aware of this. I had to wait until after 11:30 pm when most people at the station were already in bed, and the files went up a lot faster. Nonetheless, I will continue posting new clips in the future, as often as I get the chance. I also plan to record a number of longer clips, but publication will naturally have to wait until my return to the island.
The videos were selfies, but I think they turned up pretty good, and they also do a magnificent job at capturing the surrounding scenery. Also, the sound of wind makes the video feel real. I hope you enjoy them!
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