"Should I Stay or Should I Go?" -The Clash
In the midst of writing my journal for today, as we circled above McMurdo Station, Antarctica, an announcement was made that we were heading back to Christchurch. Here is what my day looked like:
4:00am- wake up in Christchurch, New Zealand
5:15am catch a shuttle to the United States Antarctic Program Passenger Terminal
5:45am arrive at terminal and put on Extreme Cold Weather gear
7:30am Orientation and briefing for flight
9:00am Board the airplane
2:00pmish Announcement that we will be going back to Christchurch
7:00pm Arrive back in Christchurch, board shuttles for hotels
Today is what's known, in the world of working in Antarctica, as a boomerang day. We'll try again another day.
Amy Osborne and Denise Hardoy, both PolarTREC educators, preparing to board the C-17 bound for Antarctica (photo by Macayla Sparks)
"Amy look out the window. Look at the beautiful scenery" My mom's voice called from the front of the big old Dodge custom van that we had named Vinnie. My nose, as usual, was buried in a book in the back of the van. It was the 1980s and my parents had decided it would be fun to pack up me and my brother and drive across the country to visit National Parks, see family, and camp. At the time, my tween brain was annoyed. A summer of hanging out with my parents and younger brother did NOT sound exciting. So, in silent protest, I chose to read books the whole way, curled up on the back seat of the van as we wound our way past the cornfields of Indiana, the sunflower fields of Kansas, into the rockies and to the Washington coast. I definitely started to take quick looks out the window to see the towering snowy mountains, the sea crashing against the sea cliffs, and the strong and giant redwood trees. My glances became lingering gazes as the beauty of the landscape entranced me.
My mom Karen and I (Amy Osborne) on the trail above Rodeo Beach in the Marin Headlands, GGNRA, Sausalito, California (Photo by Ed Osborne)
If I'm being honest, that trip with my family was amazing! My mom planned a journey that opened up my eyes to the vastness and diversity of the United States. That trip is what made me want to live on the west coast, exposed me to the unique and fascinating ecosystems across the U.S., and solidified my love of being outside. This was the jump start to my family's dream to visit all 50 United States together. As a family we did make it to 49 of those states. That trip was also totally my mom...adventurous and filled with learning, sharing, and caring for the planet. It also required being prepared, patience, communication, and a love for adventure.
All signs point south. My dad, Ed's, Eddie Would Go t-shirt and an old Smithsonian magazine about Antarctica
My mom was really excited for me to visit Antarctica, the 7th continent in my world wanderings and a place where I will be pushed to learn, grow, and bring something back with me so other people, especially young people, can experience the uniqueness of this place. There were moments when I was unsure if I should be leaving my mom at at time when her health was declining. She insisted telling me I NEEDED to go. I hesitated for a moment and then, all around me signs started to pop up...an old Smithsonian magazine about Antarctica, information my mom had kept about cruises to Antarctica, and my dad, walking around in his Eddie Would Go shirt. (I know he wishes he was going to Antarctica too) Now, as I sit in a C-17 airplane flying over the Southern Ocean on the way to the driest, coldest, and windiest place on earth, I know I'm in the right place doing the right thing. With me I carry my mom's spirit of adventure, learning, caring and sharing, as well as her ability to be patient and ready for anything.
Airman Cedric Jones and Amy Osborne hanging out in the cockpit of the C-17 that tried to fly to Antarctica today
A view from the cockpit of the C-17 of the pilots who helped us journey south and then back north again.
Though being turned around today was unexpected, I'm reminded what my mom taught me, that in any adventure I have to be ready for sudden changes, be patient, be prepared to entertain myself, and make new friends. I have books and a deck of cards but it's the people who have made this, now 10 hour flight, go by quickly.
It is an understatement to say I'm humbly in awe of the people who call working in this harsh climate their livelihood. They all have a story and are fascinating to talk to. When I arrived in New Zealand I had no idea the amount of people involved in the operations at McMurdo and the wide variety of support these people provide. Through orientation and gear issue I started to easily meet some folks. There are cargo staff who make sure the equipment that is needed for the science to actually happen is taken care of. I've met a pastry chef, a sous chef, and someone who will be washing dishes in the kitchen. I've met mechanics, heavy machine operators, IT staff, waste water management folks, someone in charge of power, and fuel operators. There are logistics folks and quality control and safety people, as well as, the folks who are flying us down to the continent. I met a guy who will be down only for a week inspecting the helicopter pilots. I talked to a team from Point Blue Conservation Science in the San Francisco Bay Area who will be studying Adelie penguins. Some people are down here for their 10th season and some are coming down for the first time. All of them are integral to the research that happens in Antarctica.
As the announcement was made that our plane was turning around people started talking to one another more, sharing what happened, what might happen next, entertaining one another, and generally keeping people's spirits up. I know my mom would have loved meeting all of these people and hearing their stories as much as I have. It seems to take a village to, well, make a village!
How to pass the time when your flight has been turned around. Operators Matt and Ethan, sous chef Maggie, carpenter Daniel and Amy Osborne play cards on the floor of the C-17 (photo by Lee Smith)
My name on the Extreme Cold Weather gear issued big red parka
Although I'm delayed for at least a couple of days as we wait for a new part for the plane, my excitement is bubbling up and feels like it's going to to spill over! Until I set foot on the ice, I'll just sit back and enjoy the ride.
A view of what we are hoping to set foot on soon! Antarctica from the window of the C-17
Diving Deep into Science
My mom also loved the ocean and I know she'd be intrigued by all of the creatures living under the ice. Did you know that many marine invertebrates who call Antarctica home experience polar gigantism? This means their species are larger in the polar regions than their counterparts in more temperate waters. The researcher I'm working with, Dr. Amy Moran, studied this phenomena the last time she was in Antarctica. She and her team hypothesize that high levels of oxygen in the ocean and extreme cold resulting in low metabolic rates mean it's pretty easy to get oxygen from the water and results in species in the polar regions becoming so large! This means a sea spider, which in more temperate waters like California is quite tiny and often hard to see, in Antarctica can be as big as a dinner plate! Similarly, nudibranchs, which I find to be fascinatingly beautiful and quite tiny in California, can, in colder waters, be the size of your forearm! I'm excited to be working with Amy and her team to learn even more about the development of sea spiders and nudibranchs! You can check out their research at Polar Gigantism in Antarctic Sea Spiders This link will also take you to the research that the team is currently doing in Antarctica and the project I will be a part of.
Question of the Day
What are you wondering about Antarctica? Whether it be the research, the climate, the people, or something else write your question in the comments section below and I'll try to seek out an answer for you.
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